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VOL I  |  EST.2025 >>

POWERED   BY    ECOSKILLARTS

Saving India’s Forgotten Rice Landraces Before They Vanish

Writer: BerryBeat Team
BerryBeat Team
22 hours ago
11 min read

Before rice in India became a story of yield charts and procurement targets, it was a story of names.


A farmer in Assam knew which grain would hold in wetland soil. A family in Chhattisgarh knew which paddy elders preferred during illness. A village in the Western Ghats knew which rice could wait out an uncertain monsoon. Each variety had a place, a season, a ritual, a taste, and often a memory attached to it.


India once grew and named more than one lakh distinct rice landraces. These were not laboratory products or commodity labels. They were living selections, shaped over centuries by farmers who watched fields closely and saved seed with care. Some were aromatic. Some were deep red, purple, black, gold, or pale as milk. Some endured drought. Some stood through flood. Some tolerated salt. Some were valued in local healing traditions.


Then came the Green Revolution, with its necessary urgency and its narrow imagination. High-yielding varieties helped increase grain production at a time when hunger was a national crisis. Yet the same push also standardised fields that had once held astonishing diversity. Over time, thousands of local rices disappeared from farms, kitchens, festivals, and memory.


Today, fewer than 7,000 of these traditional varieties are estimated to survive. Many are held in seed banks, not fields. That distinction matters. A seed kept in storage is protected from immediate loss. A seed grown by farmers keeps adapting.


Wide-angle view of a traditional rice field at sunrise in eastern India.
A rice field is also an archive, holding generations of farmer knowledge in living form.

The quiet rescue of heirloom rice India now depends on people working against the grain of modern agriculture. Rice conservationist Debal Deb has spent more than two decades conserving indigenous rice varieties through the Vrihi seed conservation initiative in Odisha. In Maharashtra’s Western Ghats, OOO Farms has worked with Adivasi communities since 2017 to revive heirloom varieties pushed aside by decades of hybrid monoculture.


Their work is slow. It rarely attracts headlines. It asks for patience in a world that rewards scale. Yet every seed saved is more than nostalgia. It may be food culture, climate insurance, and farmer sovereignty in its smallest possible form.


What a rice landrace remembers


A landrace is not just an old variety. It is a crop population shaped by a place and the people who grew it there.


Unlike modern uniform varieties, landraces often carry variation within them. That variation is a strength. It gives the crop room to respond when a season behaves strangely. A field of genetically identical plants may perform well when conditions match expectations. A diverse landrace may survive when they do not.


India’s rice landraces developed across sharply different ecologies. The crop had to adjust to Himalayan foothills, coastal belts, river basins, dry uplands, saline soils, floodplains, lateritic slopes, and deepwater fields. Farmers selected seed from plants that performed under local pressure. They repeated that process year after year.


Over generations, rice became intimate with geography.


Some varieties were prized for drought tolerance. Others for flood resistance. Some were grown where salinity would defeat many modern varieties. Some matured quickly, fitting into tight agricultural calendars. Others grew tall enough to rise with water. Many carried flavours and textures that made them inseparable from local cuisines.


Food enthusiasts often meet rice through polished grain on a plate. Landraces ask for a wider view. They include:


  • Scented rices used for festive meals and offerings

  • Sticky rices suited to sweets, snacks, and fermented foods

  • Red and black rices valued for colour, taste, and cultural meaning

  • Deepwater rices adapted to flood-prone landscapes

  • Upland rices grown without standing water

  • Medicinally significant rices remembered through folk knowledge


Bora, from Assam’s wetlands, has traditionally been used in local practice for jaundice. Karhani, grown across parts of Chhattisgarh and Jharkhand, is still used as a tonic for epilepsy in some communities. These uses belong to traditional knowledge systems and should not be read as medical advice. What they do show is how crops once sat inside a much larger understanding of health, food, and environment.


In many villages, such knowledge was never written down. It travelled through sowing, harvesting, cooking, and caregiving. A grandmother’s comment about which rice suits a new mother, a farmer’s choice of seed for a wet plot, a ritual dish made only with a certain grain, all of these were forms of record-keeping.


Modern agricultural history often treats such knowledge as informal. That word can be misleading. A practice can be unwritten and still precise. A seed name can hold soil science, climate memory, and culinary instruction at once.


The Green Revolution narrowed more than the field


The Green Revolution is often remembered through a blunt contrast: scarcity before, grain security after. That account is not false, but it is incomplete.


India needed more food. New semi-dwarf, high-yielding rice and wheat varieties helped raise production when paired with irrigation, fertilisers, pesticides, credit, procurement, and state support. For many policymakers, this package became a practical answer to a national emergency.


The cost appeared slowly. Fields that once carried many local varieties began to shift towards a smaller set of approved high-yielding cultivars. Extension systems promoted uniformity. Markets rewarded standard grain. Public procurement favoured certain types. Seed saving, once central to farming, gave way in many regions to seed purchasing.


The result was not just a change in agriculture. It was a change in imagination.


Traditional varieties came to be seen as backward because they often produced less under ideal input-heavy conditions. Their other strengths were harder to count. What is the yield value of a rice that survives a flood? What is the market price of aroma tied to a wedding dish? How should policy measure a grain used in a healing tradition, or a variety that grows in poor soil without costly inputs?


When agriculture measures only output per acre, it misses what a seed knows about risk.

High-yielding varieties were not simply adopted because farmers lacked wisdom. Many farmers made rational choices under pressure. If a procurement system rewards one grain type, if credit depends on certain crops, if neighbours shift and local seed networks weaken, diversity becomes harder to maintain. Even farmers who value older varieties may stop growing them when labour, land, and markets turn against them.


This is how disappearance happens. Not always through a dramatic event. Often through one missed season, one lost seed basket, one elder passing away, one field converted to another crop, one variety replaced because there is no buyer or no seed left.


Close-up of different coloured rice grains in a farmer’s palm.
The colour of traditional rice often carries both ecological and cultural memory.

Once gone from cultivation, a landrace becomes difficult to restore. Seed viability declines. Names get confused. A variety may survive in a gene bank but lose its social life. People may no longer remember how to grow it, process it, cook it, or explain why it mattered.


The erosion is biological, but also cultural. India did not only lose grains. It lost recipes, rituals, crop songs, field observations, and vocabulary. It lost choices.


That loss now looks more dangerous than it did a few decades ago. Climate change has made rainfall less predictable. Floods, dry spells, heat stress, and salinity are no longer rare interruptions. They are increasingly part of the farming calendar. In that future, the old charge that landraces are inefficient starts to sound shallow.


A seed that yields moderately in a bad year may matter more than a seed that yields spectacularly only when everything goes right.


Debal Deb and the patient work of Vrihi


Rice conservationist Debal Deb has spent much of his life proving that saving seed is not a romantic hobby. It is fieldwork, science, ethics, and resistance combined.


His seed bank, Vrihi, conserves more than 1,400 traditional rice varieties in Odisha. The number is striking, but the method matters just as much. Vrihi distributes seeds free to any farmer willing to grow them and return a share after harvest. This keeps the collection alive through use, not storage alone.


The model respects a simple truth: seed is not a museum object. It must be planted.


A conventional seed bank can preserve genetic material under controlled conditions. That work has value. Yet seeds in cold storage do not face monsoon shifts, pests, weeds, farmer preferences, cooking tests, or soil variation. They do not continue their relationship with people.


Vrihi’s approach places farmers back at the centre. A farmer receives a small quantity of seed. They grow it out. They observe it. They return part of the harvest so the bank can share it again. In the process, the variety re-enters cultivation and memory.


This cycle is modest by design. It does not promise instant scale. It relies on trust and reciprocity. It asks farmers to take a risk on a variety that may not fit modern market demands. It asks conservationists to document carefully, multiply patiently, and protect against loss.


The Debal Deb seed bank is often discussed as a rare private effort in a country where public systems once played such a large role in replacing local varieties. That fact carries a quiet irony. The state helped fund the spread of modern uniform seed systems. The revival of older diversity often depends on individuals, small organisations, and communities working with far fewer resources.


Vrihi seed conservation also challenges a common assumption about expertise. Modern agronomy tends to place knowledge in institutions, laboratories, and formal trials. Vrihi does not reject science. It widens the circle. It treats farmers as observers, breeders, historians, and custodians.


That is not sentiment. It is accuracy.


Farmers selected these varieties in the first place. They knew which plants lodged in wind, which survived standing water, which grain fetched respect at a feast, which straw fed cattle well, which rice held its shape in a particular dish, and which one elders recommended during illness. Removing farmers from conservation would remove the very intelligence that produced the diversity.


Eye-level view of seed packets arranged on a wooden shelf in a rural seed bank.
Community seed banks depend on careful labelling, trust, and repeated cultivation.

The work is also philosophical. The Green Revolution treated many landraces as relics because they did not match a particular production model. Vrihi treats them as reservoirs of future possibility. A red rice from one region, a salt-tolerant rice from another, a flood-adapted rice from a third, each may hold traits farmers need again.


Some may never become popular in urban markets. Some may remain local. That is not failure. Diversity does not need every variety to become a premium product. It needs enough farmers, fields, and communities to keep options alive.


Adivasi communities are rebuilding seed memory in the Western Ghats


In Maharashtra’s Western Ghats, OOO Farms has worked with Adivasi communities since 2017 to revive heirloom rice varieties that had been lost or weakened under decades of hybrid monoculture.


The Western Ghats are one of India’s most ecologically rich regions. They are also home to communities whose farming knowledge has long been undervalued. In many Adivasi areas, agriculture is tied to forest rhythms, local food systems, rainfed conditions, and shared labour. When hybrid monoculture spreads into such places, it does more than change the seed. It alters relationships.


A hybrid seed may promise higher yield, but it often comes with dependence. Farmers may need to buy seed repeatedly. They may need more external inputs. They may lose the habit of selecting and storing seed. Local dishes may change as grain types vanish. Seed names may fall out of speech.


OOO Farms has approached revival through community seed banks and field-level conservation. Farmers set aside part of their land purely for conserving heirloom varieties. That act deserves attention. Setting aside land for conservation is not easy for small farmers. Land is livelihood. Every patch has a cost.


Yet this is exactly why the work carries power. It turns conservation from an external project into a community practice. It says that seed heritage belongs in the village, not only in distant institutions.


The idea of Adivasi seed saving also pushes against a familiar pattern in conservation work. Too often, Indigenous and local communities are treated as sources of knowledge, while others receive credit for saving it. A fairer model recognises them as decision-makers and custodians.


Community seed banks do more than store seed. They rebuild systems around seed. A healthy seed bank needs:


  • Farmers who can grow and multiply varieties

  • Shared rules for borrowing and returning seed

  • Knowledge of names, traits, and growing conditions

  • Space for elders to teach younger farmers

  • Kitchens that keep demand alive

  • Local pride strong enough to resist erasure


When a farmer grows an old rice again, the field becomes a classroom. People compare plant height, grain colour, maturity time, taste, straw quality, and resilience. A variety that had become a rumour becomes visible. Children see that rice is not one anonymous white grain. It is many grains, many colours, many stories.


For food and culture enthusiasts, this is where conservation meets the plate. A landrace cannot be fully understood through seed catalogues alone. It must be cooked. It must be smelled as steam rises. It must be eaten with the foods that belong to its region. Its texture may explain why it survived in memory long after markets forgot it.


Some heirloom rices are now finding small urban audiences through farmers’ markets, conscious food networks, and regional restaurants. This can help, if handled with care. Demand can support farmers who grow traditional varieties. Yet a premium market must not strip communities of control or turn every old grain into a lifestyle product for consumers far from the field.


The better path keeps farmers at the centre. If buyers value traditional rice, that value should return to those who conserve and cultivate it.


Climate uncertainty is making old seeds newly urgent


The strongest argument for saving India’s rice landraces may no longer be heritage. It may be survival.


Climate change is making agriculture less predictable across the country. Some regions face erratic monsoons. Some see longer dry spells between intense rains. Coastal and delta regions face salinity concerns. Flood-prone areas face deeper uncertainty. Heat stress can affect flowering and grain filling. Farmers increasingly need crops that can cope with variation, not only ideal conditions.


This is where landraces matter.


A drought-tolerant rice selected over generations in dry uplands may hold clues for future farming. A flood-tolerant type from lowland fields may matter when rainfall arrives all at once. A saline-tolerant variety from coastal regions may become more important as soil and water conditions shift. A pest-resilient local population may reduce dependence on costly chemicals.


Modern breeding can use these traits, but it first needs the diversity to exist. Once a landrace disappears, its genetic possibilities disappear with it.


That is why indigenous rice varieties should not be treated as decorative heritage. They are part of India’s adaptation toolkit. They may help breeders develop future crops. They may also help farmers directly, especially in marginal regions where high-input agriculture is risky or unaffordable.


The logic is easy to grasp. Uniformity can be efficient in stable conditions. Diversity becomes valuable when conditions break pattern.


Farmers have always known this. Many traditional farming systems avoided putting all hope into one crop type. They spread risk across varieties, fields, sowing times, and food habits. Diversity acted like insurance long before the language of climate resilience entered policy documents.


Overhead view of farmers transplanting traditional rice seedlings in a rainfed field.
Planting traditional rice keeps adaptation alive in the soil, season after season.

The challenge is that conservation remains underfunded and undervalued. Seed savers often work without the support given to mainstream agriculture. Public research institutions hold collections, but on-farm revival needs long-term relationships, local trust, and patient multiplication. These are not quick projects.


Policy can help by recognising traditional varieties in seed systems, supporting community seed banks, funding participatory trials, and creating fair local markets. Schools and agricultural universities can teach crop diversity as a living subject. Chefs and food writers can move beyond novelty and trace grains back to farming communities. Consumers can ask where rice comes from, who grew it, and whether the farmer benefits.


Still, the heart of the work remains humble. Someone must save seed after harvest. Someone must label it correctly. Someone must remember which field suits it. Someone must plant it again.


That repetition is the opposite of spectacle. It is also the only reason any of these varieties remain.


The future may belong to the seeds once called backward


The story of India’s forgotten rice landraces should unsettle easy ideas of progress. A seed can be old and still ahead of its time. A farming practice can be traditional and still answer a future crisis. A variety ignored by markets can still carry knowledge that no laboratory can quickly recreate.


The Green Revolution answered one urgent question: how could India produce more grain quickly? The question now is wider. How can India grow food in ways that protect farmers, culture, nutrition, biodiversity, and climate resilience at the same time?


No single rice variety can answer that. No single seed bank can restore what has been lost. Yet the work of Debal Deb, Vrihi, OOO Farms, and Adivasi seed keepers shows a way forward. It begins by admitting that farmers were never passive recipients of agricultural science. They were breeders, experimenters, archivists, and guardians.


Saving landraces is not a retreat into the past. It is a refusal to let the future be built on fewer choices than the past once held.


Somewhere in Odisha, a packet of seed waits for a farmer willing to grow it out. Somewhere in the Western Ghats, a small plot is set aside not for immediate profit, but for continuity. Somewhere in Assam, Chhattisgarh, Jharkhand, or along a vulnerable coast, a rice variety remembered by elders may hold an answer to a season that has not yet arrived.


The people saving these seeds are not merely preserving grain. They are defending possibility.


And when the rains fail, arrive too hard, turn the soil saline, or refuse to follow old calendars, India may find that its future was waiting inside the seeds it once dismissed.


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